The roadside, in the case of Roadside Seafood, is usually off Folly Road on James Island. More specifically, the parking lot of the True Value Hardware store.

If you go

What: Roadside SeafoodWhere: Outside True Value Hardware, 866 Folly RoadHours: Noon-6 p.m. Tuesday-SaturdayFor more: 754-5890

Though Roadside Seafood bills itself as a mobile food truck, itís more akin to a mobile food trailer, making pop-up appearances at food festivals and several businesses in North Charleston and Mount Pleasant.

But no matter the location, itís certainly worth the drive, wait or walkup to the window.

Roadside Seafood is a nifty lilí fish wagon, serving up tasty takeout dishes from local waters.

Roadside smartly seeks out other area purveyors, as well, such as buying breads from Ashley Bakery and organic spices from the Charleston Spice Company.

Need proof?

Dive into one of the hand-helds, the sobriquet Roadside Seafood uses to describe its sandwiches. Though itís sort of a misnomer because these offerings are typically two-handed beasts.

Take the Peacemaker ($9), made with big honking oysters, fried up and laid out on a hoagie roll with bacon, lettuce, tomato and a fresh dill tartar sauce.

Thereís also the Big Easy ($8), this one featuring lightly breaded shrimp plus fried green tomatoes and a special tangy sauce.

Really, itís tough to go wrong with either of the two, though neither is likely the most popular item.

That distinction belongs to Roadsideís Bam Bam Shrimp, served by itself over slaw ($8) or as a taco (1 for $5 or 2 for $8) with Sriracha mayo and a zesty sour cream.

The Spartacus taco is quite good, too, made with nicely flayed grilled shrimp.

In general, the menu helps prove a greater point. From the seaside to roadside, customers are well-covered here.