The small, tidy take-out building known as Island Seafood & Grille sits in North Charleston, just up the road from Pizza Roma, the areaís only chrome pizzeria, and just down the road from Under the Sea, a fried fish parlor that also dishes out tacos and customary Korean and Japanese meals.

What: Island Seafood & GrilleWhere: 5093 Dorchester Road, North CharlestonHours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.For more: 414-7596

Ah, the strange and magnificent treats of Dorchester Road.

At Island Seafood, the restaurant separates the menu into two categories: land and sea.

Really, it canít get much easier than that.

Here on terra firma, choices include fried wings ($6.99-$8.99) or wings cooked in flavors such as BBQ, hot, mild, teriyaki and lemon pepper.

Burgers ($3.99-$4.99), cheese steaks ($7.99), fried chicken sandwiches ($5.99) and such, as well as chicken and shrimp salad ($6.99) also adorn the menu.

The sea side, so to speak, shows off a bit more, containing seafood gumbo and all sorts of fried offerings: shrimp, flounder, whiting, oysters, clam strips, scallops and crab cakes.

You can grab just about any choice in a basket ($6.99), dinner ($8.99-$11.99) or platter ($12.99-$14.99), plus hush puppies and coleslaw, all stretched out on a big pile of fries inside a recyclable carryout carton.

Itís a tasty little batter, the large shrimp cooked head on, emerging crispy and crunchy. The crab cakes are more like crab cake balls, checking in about an ounce apiece.

As for the sides, the slaw is unfortunately lacking; itís just a blase blend without much snap or freshness.

Meanwhile, the fries looked to be dusted with seasoning similar to Lawryís, while the hush puppies are soft and fluffy, and certainly preferable to the coleslaw.

Regardless, at a minimum, Island Seafood should certainly settle any cravings for fried foodstuff.