If you go
What: Nana’s Seafood & SoulWhere: 176 Line St.Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 2-7 p.m. SaturdayFor more: 937-0002
At some places, the servings are so great that you can count on getting a pair of meals from the order.
Not so at Nana’s Seafood & Soul, where three meals is the better baseline.
But volume is only one measure of performance. We’ll need to check underneath the hood — or in Nana’s case, the container flap.
Behold, the Nana’s Seafood Dinner: a $15 jumbo sampling of fried shrimp, whiting, scallops, oysters and deviled crab. Piled high with little space to spare, it’s hard to even see the white Styrofoam container supporting the feast.
And what a feast it is.
The oysters are top-of-the-line, like lil’ fluffy popcorn bites ready for intake. Though best might be the deviled crab, which is fashioned into a ball shape to crown the pile. It’s sneaky spicy with a fine medley of seasonings and crab meat. The rest is cooked to a golden finish, heated well — not too hot — with a winning, crispy texture.
Enjoy the tangy Thousand Island-y, tartar-y dipping sauce, too, which is actually surprisingly close to In-N-Out Burger’s secret sauce.
Should you feel less ambitious, the items can be ordered as individual meals ($7-$11.75) or as combinations ($9-$13). Or if your appetite begs for something different (or slightly different — it’s still mostly fried), choose from turkey wings, flounder, deep-fried ribs, crab stuffing or crab purloo, the latter of which also is recommended.
Sides vary from red rice, lima beans, macaroni and cheese, and potato salad to fried oyster Caesar salad.
Expect around 30 minutes for your food, as Nana’s cooks to order.
Accommodations are limited, too; only four two-tops make up the seating. But as a neighborhood spot, Nana’s meets its obligations, serving up terrific, homespun meals for everyone.
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