My friends and I long have lamented the absence of a true delicatessen in Charleston, discounting those that masquerade as such.

If you go

What: Charleston Delicatessen & Bakery

Where: 10957 Dorchester Road, Summerville

Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday

more info: 875-0630

Those concerns, or annoyances, do not extend to the Charleston Delicatessen & Bakery.

The Jewish delicatessen lives up to its title and to expectations. It’s like an outlier of sorts in a land of pretend delis, coolly delivering Carnegie-style stacked sandwiches, potato knishes, slow-roasted brisket sandwiches and beef tongue from its Summerville outpost.

It’s a place worth your time, worth your travel and worth your indulgence, no matter where you may live in the Charleston area.

The deli serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Mornings present freshly baked bagels and buttery croissants, house-made lox ($6.95-$8.75), corned beef hash and eggs ($8.75), several dishes featuring challah bread and matzo brei ($7.95), a savory Jewish pancake made with matzo, eggs and seasonings.

The rest of the day belongs to features like matzo ball soup ($4.25), quiches, deep-dish tomato pies ($8.95) and a generous sandwich board: hand-trimmed corned beef ($10.50), tender brisket ($10.50), reubens ($10.95) and spice-rubbed and smoked pastrami ($10.50).

For $18.50, the delicatessen ramps up the sandwich portion size to levels befitting New York’s Carnegie Deli.

The impossibly large bread and dessert display cases also show off a world of options. The Charleston Delicatessen prepares its own Jewish rye and French baguettes, along with a rich collection of sweets like baklava, eclairs, Italian cannoli, rum cake, and black and white cookies.

And what’s this? They’re even introducing an ice creamery to the store, creating parlor-made classics that hark back to the 1950s. Put it on the list — it’s yet another reason for dropping in.