If you go

What: Charleston House of Pizza

Where: 5031 Dorchester Road, North Charleston

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Wednesday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursday-Saturday

For more: 760-1734 or www.pizzaromadiner.com/pizzacalzones.php

In the spring, we bid a fond farewell to Pizza Roma Diner, the North Charleston restaurant made popular for its tasty carousel of desserts and, of course, its designation as the area’s only chrome pizzeria.

Now, the role has been recast, along with ownership, as the Charleston House of Pizza. The menu from CHOP may not include Pizza Roma’s coconut or red velvet cakes, but the place is still the only pizzeria around to be plated in chrome.

The Charleston House of Pizza sticks to its guns: pizza, pasta, calzones, subs, wraps and salads. No surprises here.

The House Special ($10.97-$18.32), for instance, is just a supreme-style pizza made with pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, hamburger, green peppers and onions.

Other specialty pizzas include a meatlovers pie, vegetarian and Greek, all topped with mozzarella and cheddar cheeses.

Now, these aren’t gourmet, Neapolitan style pizzas by any stretch. Rather, these are just solid, blue-collar varieties. All are generously portioned, the cheese bubbling onto a golden crust. They make for pretty pies, and the results, while not spectacular, won’t leave you wanting more.

Spaghetti and ziti comprise the pasta portion ($6.56-$8.35) of the menu, accounting for meatballs, sausage, veal, chicken and eggplant. Stuffed shells, manicotti and lasagna also make appearances.

As sandwiches ($6.56-$6.89) go, choose from the chicken parm, veal parm, chicken cutlet, eggplant or sausage and meatball subs.

The Philly cheesesteaks also have proven popular, each served with cheese and mayonnaise.

As with any new restaurant, Charleston House of Pizza is still maturing. The interior aesthetic lacks style and orderliness, particularly in comparison with the exterior. But perhaps once these growing pains lessen, the dining area will light up in accordance with its shiny facade.