The Gullah Geechee culture still travels well, serving up its traditions one meal at a time.
The Geechee Island Food Truck provides the heritage, dishing out red rice, stews and seafood dishes.
The food truck hit the road back in 2011, becoming one of Charleston’s first mobile canteens as the group has swelled to include 20-plus members.
Alongside those staple foods, the truck, which bears the Gullah Geechee Anointed People emblem, serves up mostly simple plates: grilled chicken sandwiches, shrimp tacos, and wings and fries.
The “chicken sammich ($9),” as they’re served, combines grilled chicken strips, squash, zucchini and mushrooms with a sweet and savory sauce.
The shrimp tacos (2 for $8) are also grilled and dressed up with a mix of collards and cabbage, shredded cheese and sour cream on flour tortillas.
The wings are flavored in a few choices like sweet ’n’ spicy, lemon pepper and “Geechee Island,” seasoned more sharply in a sweet and sour style.
We ordered ours the traditional way: “hot.”
Coated and tossed in a spicy sauce, these wings taste the way you’d hope: crisp and with solid heat. The order comes with a generous heaping of fries dusted in a Lawry’s-style seasoning, alongside a few packets of Hunt’s ketchup.
Meantime, the Lowcountry mix ($9) calls for the classics: red rice, cuts of smoked sausage, sauteed cabbage and boiled shrimp, all splayed out across a single-compartment Styrofoam container.
Sometimes, Geechee Island even serves up smoked meats, doling out pulled pork, smoked turkey and smoked chicken sandwiches. Other times, it’s shark steak stew or blue crabmeat with brown gravy over grits.
With a varied, alternating menu, the truck is worth tracking down a time or two.