Set your mouth on fire at Buffalo South

Buffalo South plunked down roots in 2001, hauling a bit of western New York (and a chicken wing or two) to Charleston.

The restaurant, now situated on Folly Road, underwent renovations in recent months. Good thing they kept their brand hallmark: buffalo-style chicken wings.

The wings, flats and drumettes, aren't laden by a mushy paste or excessively covered in dry rub.

They're just right: crunchy, the skin crisp, and sauced and flavored well. Served in allotments of 10 in 20-plus varieties, our faves include spicy bourbon, (dry) Ranch and just plain ol' hot.

But the Buffalo tilt doesn't end there. The restaurant's beef on weck ($8.99) is deserving of prominence, and a plug. The beef is slow-roasted in-house and stacked high on kimmelweck. Apply fresh horseradish or plunge the sandwich into au jus. The saltiness of the weck and the natural juices are an easy match.

The bratwurst ($7.99 for one; $10.99 for two), while not exclusive to Buffalo, comes secured in casing, and topped off with sauerkraut, coleslaw or diced onions. It's top quality: juicy, plump, nicely browned and full-flavored.

The only trouble is the bun, which isn't a bun at all, but rather a toasted roll. Now, it's fine, no qualms, though it has difficulty supporting the trappings of the bratwurst. Hey, it's never easy to maintain balance atop a tube.

Other options impress, including Chiavetta's Chicken, split chicken breasts basted in a vinegar-based marinade; and the gimmicky (albeit jaw-dropping) Heart Attack Burger, containing American, Swiss and mozzarella cheeses, jalapenos and mushrooms, all squeezed between two half-pound patties, a smattering of chili, buffalo sauce and bleu cheese, and, yes, even onion rings.

It's not for the faint. Like Buffalo South, only the strong shall survive and continue to flourish.