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Dig in to Cafe Fork

By Rob Young, Special to The Post and Courier

Thursday, August 26, 2010

The new Cafe Fork is the offshoot of Fork Fine Gourmet Catering & Events, and the capable husband-and-wife team of Margaret and Wendall Edwards.

Wendall and chef Matt Shearer share credit for the menu, a fresh, inventive mix of sandwiches, salads, specials (say, the double cut pork chops with brandied peaches), and "of the moment" pizzas, like the Italian sausage variety with spinach, garlic, feta and parmesan cheeses.

The cafe itself, at Pier Point Crossing, is handsome and well-conceived, and frankly, an unexpected find in West Ashley. The cozy affair joins together diners at an expansive, marble community table, situated at the heart of the dining area. About 12 people can share the space, framed by fresh roses and flowers, and a large wrought-iron, bronze chandelier hanging overhead.

The walls are painted an attractive robin egg blue. A series of four color prints appropriately displaying forks dress up one of the walls, while on the opposite hang several attractive oils on canvas.

Distressed wooden tables and chairs make up a de facto counter at the edge of the large open kitchen, helping carry out a mix of contemporary and traditional decor.

Here, offerings are considerable, such as the lobster cobb roll, a classic updated with bacon, tomato and avocado; sugar magnolia chicken salad sandwich, blended with red grapes and walnut pralines; the smoked duck breast spinach salad; and the voodoo pasta, made with black squid ink noodles, spicy sausage and Cajun shrimp.

Our only qualm with Fork? That the cafe just serves lunch -- such a shame. But with any luck, maybe we won't have to wait long until dinner turns up on the menu.

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