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Brett McKee is one of the busiest chefs in Charleston's culinary scene

By Angel Powell, Special to The Post and Courier

Thursday, May 20, 2010

A native of New York, chef Brett McKee has been a fixture in Charleston's culinary community since he arrived here in 1989.

In 2005, he opened Oak Steakhouse on Broad Street. Since then, he has partnered with Steve Palmer and formed The Indigo Road, which has gone on to open both 17 North and O-Ku restaurants.

Q: The company has been through a lot of changes and growth in the last year, opening 17 North and then O-Ku. How are you managing to keep up?

A: I'm smart enough to have improved myself as a person. I don't get as excited anymore. Also, I have people like Michael Beford at Oak and my partner in The Indigo Road, Steve Palmer, who take my anxieties away.

I think personally I'm able to manage everything that I'm doing through yoga, Pilates and acupuncture. I also need to always remind myself that family is my No. 1 priority.

Q: What is next for The Indigo Road?

A: We are opening up our location in Shelter Island, N.Y., on Memorial Day and we are very close to signing a deal in Atlanta. Charlotte is already signed; we're trying to open there on 15 North. These places will follow our roadside kitchen concept, but the demographic of the city will dictate the menu.

Q: With all of the projects that you juggle, do you ever spend time in the kitchen anymore?

A: I spend the most time in the kitchen when we are opening and creating restaurants. I get in and do demos and try out new menu items. I cooked on the line for 34 years and now, as my career evolves, I have trained people to be able to do what I want them to do. People expect to see me when they come into Oak, so I can't be on the line and not speak to the customers.

Q: Because you are traveling so much and working on so many different projects, it seems that hiring the right people is imperative. How do you choose members of your staff?

A: Who you surround yourself with is so important. My hiring style has nothing to do with a resume or where someone has been, I just have a conversation with them, decide if I like them, and then give them a chance. If they pass that, I'll see what they can do in the kitchen. With "front of house," it is just a feeling that I get. I'm looking for a hospitality personality.

Q: How much of your food is local?

A: As much as possible. I constantly take conceptual ideas and change them to fit our local product. We have gardens at O-Ku and 17 North, so if I can grow it, I do.

Q: What do you think of the changes in the culinary community in Charleston over the last 20 years?

A: When I first came to Charleston, a high-end restaurant had fried and broiled seafood platters. There were a couple of good places, but nothing like what we have not. The culinary diversity in this city is one of the most amazing in the country.

Q: Where do you go for "guilty pleasure" food?

A: JB's Smokehouse is great. I also like pizza and Carvel Ice Cream.

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